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• #Best photo scanner for mac with no lift top software#

Lower the acetate down, going from taped side to end. Spray a healthy amount of fluid onto the film. Place the film (emulsion side) onto the glass as square as possible. This is not the optical side, so its not that critical. Just enough to have the film stick to the glass. You now have a holder.įlip the acetate back and spray some fluid on the glass. This has to be just where the stock holders would place the 120 film. One edge (length wise) to the sheet glass on the underside (side with the legs) in the center. Oversize it enough as it will for a flap covering the film. Cut a strip big enough to cover a strip of 120, in the usual length. If you use the fluid I suggested, you can use clear acetate, otherwise a sheet of clear mylar will have to be used. Layer to get optimal height (experiment and adjust). Tape them onto the 4 corners to form legs. Mine cost me $3 at an art store.Ħ - 1 microfiber cloth ($1 at a dollar store) 5 to 1 mm, as required.Ĥ - 1 sheet of acetate (or mylar scanning sheet). Here it is.ġ - 1 8x10 clip frame glass ($1-$4 depending where you get it).Ģ - Cardboard from a cardboard box of some sort. This is too bad, considering how many of them are out there (and how badly the engineering of Epson is for this product). I do not know of any replacement holders for 35.Īs far as I know, there are no commercial wet mount jigs available for the 4490/v500/v600. The focus is not adjustable with this solution. Film with curl has the same problems from above. They rely on the holders that Epson gave you. Nice try, but it was no magic bullet.ī has ANG glass for 35. If the curl is too great, the film cannot rest on the edges of the form. They don't work that well for excessive curl (LuckySHD 100), but have adjustable legs for focus. If not, don't waste your time.ī has replacement holders and ANG glass for 120. If your image is sharper, your scanner is OK and up to the task. Yes you will have newton rings, but this is just to prove something. Get a sheet of glass from a picture frame on top of it, to hold it in place and to flatten it. If it is in focus, you are good to go.īefore you spend any money to fix your situation, put a negative face down on the bed (center) of the scanner. The real test of how good a holder/scanner combination is to scan and look for grain.

It's like they want to promote an after market. The 4490, out of the box, shows poor thought and engineering in film holders. The 7200i gives me real 3200 dpi and is sharp. I bought a Plustek 7200i for 35 and a 4490 for 120. I will have to examine that more closely.ĭon't be so quick to throw the baby out with the bath water, folks! Yes, in an ideal world, a dedicated anything is probably better than a general tool (flat bed). I was surprised to read that multiple-pass scans degrade image sharpness.I thought that 3 passes improved my images. Even if I just use the default settings in Nikonscan, the results nearly matched the output of my DSLR for prints up to 8" x 12" (the largest size I print). I lucked-out and purchased a Nikon Coolscan V ED just before they were discontinued.

The best thing I ever did to improve my 35mm scans was to forget the flatbed and buy a film scanner. I got in the habit of filling the entire film holder and scanning only the frames I wanted. I also discovered that, if I left any of the film holder slots empty, I would get a strong magenta colour cast on the frames that I scanned. Scanning those dark areas seemed to throw the scanner exposure out of whack. It was very important to ensure I cropped-out the "film borders" in the preview window, before I scanned the frame. I got into the habit of leaving my film strips under a stack of books for a few days before I scanned them. If your film holders are similar, this could account for some of your lack of sharpness. The 4990 film holders do not hold the film flat. Since I am not that good at reading negatives, I only scanned positive film with the 4990. My 4990 really struggled if the film was under or over exposed. However, the results were just plain disappointing.

#Best photo scanner for mac with no lift top software#

There were some differences according to which software I used (Vuescan, Epsonscan or Silverfast Lite) and I got better results if I did not manipulate the image with the scan software (beyond white-point and a bit of sharpening). I initially purchased an Epson 4990 Photo flatbed scanner (which I believe was Epsons top of the line Photo flatbed at the time) and after working at it for months, the best I could do with properly exposed, 35mm slide film (Provia 100) was to achieve barely acceptable results that looked bad if printed larger than 6" x 9".

In my experience, if you are expecting the same (even nearly the same) quality from 35mm film scans on a consumer-grade flatbed scanner as you get from your DSLR - you will continue to be disappointed and frustrated. Somebody might correct me on this (I am not familiar with the scanner you mention).